Dog Blog!

If your dog COULD talk!!

2009-04-27T21:41:00.000-07:00

I am a dog. Nothing more or less. I DO NOT know how to communicate in a human world. I only know the language of dogs.
When you talk to me, please understand I have no idea what you are saying. I am not being stubborn or stupid. I will not learn the things you want me to know, until you teach them to me. Teaching is not comprised of yelling, hitting, and pointing. If you do those things I will become scared, frustrated, and confused.
I am talking all of the time. Not with words, but with body language. If you watch my ears, eyes, nose, lips, mouth, tail and posture you will see what I am saying. If you don't understand the message, please find someone who does. I am counting on you.
I am a canine, not a little person in a fur suit. Please respect my heritage. If you treat me like a person, I will treat you like a dog. I need a patient, confident and consistent leader. If you don't provide that for me, I will provide it for myself. My behavior is your responsibility. If I am hyper, exercise me. If I am scared, socialize me.
I will not intentionally do bad things. I will live according to dog law. I will not do things that are contrary to canine behavior, although canine behavior may be contrary to you. All of my quirks can be mended to an acceptable level with time and teaching. Please don't set unrealistic expectations on my ability.
I can be trained to do many things. Some of my doggy cousins can lead the blind, hear for the deaf, comfort the sick, assist the police, sniff out the missing, guard the sheep, round up the cattle, help the disabled and rescue those in danger. I too can perform many great things.
Don’t spend all of your money on my purchase, toys and vet. care. Save money for my training. It will ultimately save my life and your valuables!!
XOXO,
Your devoted dog!

My dog ate my.....

2009-03-22T08:56:00.000-07:00

You can fill in the blank here. My dog ate my...... has been on the top of the list this month. I have to say in all the years I have been training, I have not had a month like this one. I have had 3 puppies this month, in training, who have ingested and swallowed foreign material and matter warding a trip to the Vet. One of the puppies had to have surgery, one had to stay 2 nights in the emergency room, and the other was unharmed. Just like children, puppies put everything in the mouth. Because they don't have hands, they pick it up and want to feel and smell how the object tastes. When dog trainers and Vets tell owners they need to keep their puppy in a "Puppy Safe" environment on a leash with 100% supervision, we do this because we see the big picture. We have seen it all. We don't say this to be cruel, we don't say it because we are hyper vigilante, we say these things because puppies get into mischief when you don't watch them.

I saw a new client yesterday with a 16 week old puppy who is being left alone in their apartment while they are at work. All the bedroom and bathroom doors are shut and the puppy has access to the kitchen and the living room. This is inappropriate confinement for any puppy. This puppy is being left unsupervised for 8 hrs a day, while they are at work. While I was sitting on the floor advising them as to why this is not a good practice, they told me they had not had any problems with this arrangement and he was really good. Just as I was telling them what dangers were around the house for a young puppy, I noticed a wire on the ground attached to a video game. The wire was frayed and mangled and was obviously not suppose to be that way. So, I asked them if this wire was like that or if it had been victim of puppy antics? I already knew the answer. They were shocked he had done this and were totally unaware. I then let them know they were lucky this wasnt a live wire and the puppy was not electrocuted.

Puppy number two is a dog I have had in training for many weeks now. He too has alot of "House Freedom" and is confined while the owners are away. They do everything correct in terms of puppy safe practices around the home. They called me in the AM and told me he had thrown up his dinner the night prior, threw up multiple times in the night and breakfast the morning they were calling me. They wanted to know if they were over reacting by making a vet appointment. I told them absolutely get him in ASAP, because what they were describing sounded like a blockage somewhere. Well low and behold their was, a nylon woman's dress sock. It has lodged it's way into the intestines of the pup and had to be surgically removed. Apparently although the clothes were in the laundry basket the puppy managed to pull the sock out through one of the holes in the side of the hamper. He was unsupervised for enough time to locate the sock, pull it out and ingest it. 2000 dollars later, he is doing just fine.

Pup number 3 ingested something not designed for digestion. This particular client called and was fed up with the Vet because her puppy had diarrhea for the last week in a half and wanted to know if I could recommend someone else to her to get to the bottom of his problems. She told me what was going on and what the Vet had recommended, however the diarrhea seemed to be getting worse not better. She said he was eating and in great spirits, but the diarrhea was out of control even with a chicken and rice diet and medication. I referred her to my Vet and told her too, SOUNDS LIKE A BLOCKAGE! So, $350.00, a trip to emergency at 1:00 in the morning, 2 nights in Vet care, he too is doing fine. He passed his foreign body and did not need surgery. Whew!

Puppies are like garbage disposals. I have seen them ingest all of the following

Paperclips, rubber bands, large sewing needles, thumbtacks, push pins, ponytail holders, hearing aids, baby diapers, pacifiers, money and change, sheets, socks, underwear, bra wires, shoelaces, nails, spools of thread and yarn, feminine hygiene products, plastic bags, corn cobs, and the list goes on and on.

Keep in mind that these are not BAD puppies....These are PUPPIES!! Regular, active, run of the mill puppies. Most folks feel guilty about confining the puppy in their life, however I think the guilt is more centered around long hours away from their pet and people believe they are being mean by restricting freedom (see post,"When can I leave my puppy loose in the house and the yard"). Puppies require an intense amount of time to turn them into the pet you want in your life ( see post," Do you have the time"). In case you were wondering what constitutes a puppy? Any dog under 2 years of age is considered a puppy. Yes, two years of age.

So the moral of the story is this:

Supervise your puppy while it is loose in your home. Set up a designated area for your puppy where he or she can be a puppy and chew on appropriate toys. While you are away, confine your puppy to keep him safe. Check your home for potential hazards your puppy may encounter. Train your puppy. Don't set your expectations greater than your puppy's ability, and ALWAYS consult your Vet for any health issues you don't believe are normal for your particular puppy. Sometimes waiting to see if it will PASS can be the difference of life and death.

Why does my dog go crazy when he see's other dogs on a walk?

2009-03-15T07:26:00.000-07:00

What you are experiencing is territorial aggression, dog aggression or leash aggression. Not every dog displays this behavior. This can be caused by many circumstances to include, but not limited to fear, frustration, dominance and protectiveness. Many dogs have had negative experience in early stages of devolopment or lack of socialization that can bring this problem on. It can range from mild to severe, and in some cases can be owner induced. Whichever the cause, the dog in question needs to be evaluated by a professional to diagnose the problem and deal with it accordingly. Aggression should not be excused, it needs to be addressed.

Housebreaking accidents after Doggy Daycare

2009-03-15T07:07:00.000-07:00

At doggy daycare it is a free for all. The dogs go potty whenever they want. If it is an indoor facility it makes matters worse. You have same sex dogs running and marking and mounting and competing and claiming territory and playing. So it isn't uncommon for the young dog to loose his housebreaking after a week of mayhem. All the hard work you put in goes out the window. Good news, easily regained with a little structure. I don't know if you crate trained your dog, but you need to go back to that for a while. How long? Cant say, but usually a week or two to get back on track. It is the price you pay when you do cage free. Putting dogs in caged boarding is not such a bad thing. It keeps their denning instinct in tact and keeps things structured. Especially in a young dog coming into maturity. I always crate after a board stay. Just to remind them of the rules.

Again, I would go to the vet to rule out UTI but if all checks out....

UTI and Bladder stones

2009-03-15T07:03:00.000-07:00

Having potty accidents on an otherwise housebroken dog? Is your dog peeing in the house, when for as long as you can remember, has held for hours? Well, he or she may have a UTI, or even worse, a bladder stone.

I recently, this summer, have had many dogs here at the house. Many of you know I have 4 dogs of my own and from time to time I watch clients dogs in emergency situations. Well starting in June, I have had as many as 9 dogs in and out my door. Males and Females ranging in size of small and Large, puppies and adults. And I would be lying if I said I have not had any accidents. All together, maybe 3 or 4. So, when I caught my Female Pug peeing on top of another spot, I suspected she was marking. She tends to be territorial, marking on walks and barks at the occasional passer by, so I corrected her and took her outside when she was caught.

When I take my dogs to the bathroom, I walk them on grass here in my neighborhood. Being that my pug is a female, she squats; being she is small, she is very low to the ground. It makes it very difficult for me to see the urine coming out of her and I also don't make it a practice to bend over and examine her pee while she is peeing.

Well as the months went on I noticed her "Marking" more. For the last month I have had a handful of accidents from her, only they have been in very random places. Next to the toilet in the bathroom, right in front of me on the balcony, in the crate in the car. So, yesterday I went on patrol to examine her urine. Low and behold, she had urine that was brown. I put a Urine catch under her as she was peeing, and was amazed at the dark color.

Now, keep in mind that I have had my female Aussie in the Vet for Staph infections in the bladder once or twice in 13 years, and I know the traditional signs and symptoms of UTI's. However this one was traditional, but not out of the ordinary for this particular pug. She is the kind of dog that usually marks on a walk multiple times. She also will pee over the top of another dogs urine almost immediately after they have peed, and licks her "Twitter" daily to keep it clean. So although these are all signs, this is 100% normal behavior for her.

I took her to the Vet and she has a very bad Bladder infection, and has developed a bladder stone. The stone thickens and irritates the lining of the bladder causing it to bleed and is very uncomfortable for her. However, she shows no signs of being in pain. The "Marking" I was seeing was straining, other than that, she had no other symptoms.

So, if I have said it once I have said it a million times..."Before you try and solve Housebreaking problems, you must rule out infections first. Your dog will thank you for it.

When can I leave my puppy loose in the house and yard?

2009-02-27T08:23:00.000-08:00

If there are two words that don't go together in dog training, it is "Loose" and "Puppy". I believe this is where owners get into a lot of trouble. Puppies need to be confined in safe areas till they are mature enough to venture out into the rest of the house and yard. Have the puppy restricted into a puppy safe area to ensure the safety of your home, landscaping and patio furniture. If you give a young puppy too much freedom at an early age, chances are he will get into tons of mischief. Puppies get in trouble just when you least expect it. I usually hear my clients say, " I just ran upstairs for a minute!". A minute is all a puppy needs to find himself in trouble. If you are going to take your eyes off the puppy for anything, he MUST be confined.

Owning a puppy is a big responsibility and I am sorry, but that is just the way it is. If you had a 1 yr old child, you wouldn't take your eyes off him unless he was in the crib or a playpen. The same holds true for a puppy. Now, some pups are a little more low key that others, but if you want to ensure success, keep him safe. You will have 10+ yrs with your dog, this is a small price to pay in the beginning to mold your puppy into a model citizen. Puppies do not have hands and in their quest to conquer, they put everything in their mouths. They smell it and taste it. Supervised trips, on a leash, to the rest of the house is needed to familiarize the puppy with his surroundings. However, you cannot and should not give your young puppy any credit.

Your house in the eyes of a young dog is the equivalent of Disneyland to a small child. Puppies have to earn freedom, that way it tastes better. You run the risk of your puppy jumping on counters and tables, chewing on furniture, sorting the laundry, eating your shoes, chewing children's toys, getting in the garbage, chewing wires and cords, and sending you into bouts of frustration. Some of these items can be VERY dangerous to a pup and his digestive tract, not to mention the cost of the ruined items. So, my advice is as follows: An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure! Don't feel guilty confining your dog! You will feel worse if he gets hurt, slips and drowns in the pool or digs under the gate and runs away.

Correction Collars

2009-02-27T08:20:00.000-08:00

I decided to write this post after hearing a story from a fellow trainer and friend. I have told similar stories in the past, to clients, but this one is a little closer to home.

In the process of training a dog there are many different TOOLS a trainer holds in the "Bag of tricks". Correction Collars ( choke chains) happen to be one of those tools. I have used them for years on certain dogs, and I use them now as part of my training process. Not everyone uses them and not every owner agrees with them, however they can be invaluable in the grand scheme and big picture of TRAINING certain animals. With that being said, I want to preface they are a TOOL. They are not a collar!!! They do not and should not take the place of a flat buckle collar. I have seen people use them as such. They do not and should not have tags attached to them, and they are used ONLY when the dog is in TRAINING MODE, or under the supervision of the owner. When TRAINING has finished, they are to be removed, and put in a safe place till the next TRAINING session. Below is a story that happened to a client of a training partner of mine.

I received a phone call last week from a friend who asked me who to call to remove a dead dog of someones property. I asked her what had happened and she relayed to me that the owners of three dogs had been in an accident that resulted in the death of one of the three dogs at the home. Apparently, the owner had left town for the weekend and left her three Labrador Retrievers in the care of a family member. While the caregiver had left for the day, the dogs were outside, as they had always been, until the caregiver was to come back. In the small time she was gone the dogs had managed to get tangled in the chokers that had been left on them. The puppy (7months) was playing with the sister ( 6yrs old) and got his mouth caught in her chain. The puppy then panicked and twisted and fought to free himself and in the process strangled the 6 yr old dog to suffocation. The puppy received cuts and bruises to his JAW, TEETH, MOUTH, GUMS, NOSE, EYES, NECK, AND FACE. He was in critical condition due to the swelling around his neck that made it difficult for him to breath. He has recovered, however, the 6 yr old was lost in the process.

I hate when I hear stories of preventable accidents, but this is why as a trainer, I always tell you to remove your choker. I have clients who battle me on this with excuses as to why they don't remove them. I don't care what excuse you give me, I will NEVER tell you it is okay to leave on TRAINING equipment if you are not around.

Too much time in the crate.

2009-02-11T00:18:00.000-08:00

Crate training your puppy is a wondeful thing when you are raising a pup into a dog. Many pups accept a crate right off the bat, and others have a little bit of a hard time in the beginning. Most pups and dogs will learn to love a crate and view it as their "Den". As with all dog training equipment, the crate is a tool in the overall training process and as with all equipment you do not want to abuse it. I am seeing an increase in dogs who are being over crated and owners who don't understand why their behavior is less than desirable.

If you work, and your puppy is crated all day, you are going to have to make up for the confinement with exercise and mental enrichment when you get home. Puppies have boundless energy and NEED to be drained when they go to their crates. The typical puppy sleeps 6-8 hours overnight in a crate, then gets an hour out in the morning followed by another 8 hours in the crate while you are at work. If you have someone who drops in on the dog ( dog walker, family member...) they typically stay for 30-60min, and back to the crate they go. If you look at the math, it is roughly 14-16 hours in the crate with an hour or two for running around. That is not enough for a puppy. Puppies need walks,playtime, training time and good old fashioned "just hanging out with you" time. You must not leave a puppy in a crate for longer than 3- 4 hours at a time with out proper elimination, nutrition, and stimulation.

If you leave the house at 8 am, do not come home until 6-7 pm and retire at 9 pm your puppy will suffer from over confinement. You need to find a way to create a little more time for your friend. He or she waits all day for your attention, you owe it to him or her for their patience.

2009-02-10T23:46:00.000-08:00

Foul odor is the first real sign of something going on in the mouth of a dog. Regular check ups at the Vet and simple home care will help combat canine halitosis. Just like people, our dog friends suffer from cavities, tooth aches, tooth decay and tartar. I have posted this photo I took of a very loving dog owner who had no idea what was lurking behind her dogs lips. Please check your dogs teeth regularly and have your Vet suggest an oral care regiment for you and your best buddy! your dog will kiss you for it!

I was told if I neuter my 6 month old puppy it will "Calm and Change" him and stop his humping?

2009-02-10T01:15:00.000-08:00

Neutering a dog has effects on his behavior to an extent. Unfortunately, you wont see it, because he is coming into a boost of hormones here in the near future. If he is humping it can be two things, one being he is trying to figure out his pack status and two he is getting his hormones coming into his adolescence. Either way you need to correct the mounting and humping behavior so that he doesn't think it is okay.

You will not get back a calm puppy after the neuter. Meaning he wont loose his puppy-ness. He will be the same dog you dropped off. Neutering only takes away the testosterone drive that will fuel him as an adult. Contrary to popular belief, his personality wont "Change". He may be less apt to lift his leg, although lots of neutered male do. He will be less apt to mount unless you have a dominate dog that is allowed to dominate the family in other areas, he may fight less with others if he is aggressive, his need to find females in heat will decrease, and the need to roam.... just to name a few...

Regardless of the neuter, train him, be consistent, and you will have the same pup you see now. Any dog has the ability( neutered or not) to become a pushy,bossy, marking, territorial, hyper, unbalanced, aggressive,shy, or submissive dog if given the right environment to do so in.

The humping wont just stop out thin air, you need to correct him for it. His tendency to do it will decrease with your assistance, unless he is a social climbing puppy with a strong will personality.

Don't confuse personality with behavior. They are two different things. Behavior is how he acts, Personality is who he is.

You can have a dog with a shy personality who has dominate behaviors
or you can have an aggressive dog with dominate behavior.
You can always change the behavior, or modify it, or shape it. But the personality is another ball of wax. Meaning if he is aloof he will more than likely always be aloof to a certain degree, if he is shy and sensitive he will always be shy and sensitive to a degree, that's his personality. So if he needs to be corrected for the mounting BEHAVIOR, look at his PERSONALITY and tailor a correction that is appropriate. Hope that helps. And as always, that's just my 2 cents.

Excuse me..."Do you have the time?"

2009-02-10T01:01:00.000-08:00

Today is the end of a long week for me and I decided to write an entry about the biggest problem I saw in my training clients.

This is an article about time, or lack of. I am hit everyday with perplexed looks and sighs when the prescription I dish out is one of spending more time with the dog or the puppy. Raising a puppy or training a dog takes TIME along with consistency, patience and discipline. I don’t think most people get that concept. I think intellectually they understand it, but in reality think in some way it doesn’t apply to them specifically. Well trained animals don’t come out of a box understanding what to do in a human world. Their success is dependent on their owners. It seems no one has the time anymore. I think folks are stretched so thin it leaves little or no time for working with their pets. It is increasingly becoming a problem. Puppies don’t reach emotional maturity until around 18-24 months of age. What that means is you have to manage the puppy into adulthood with consistency until that day arrives.

Things to Chew and Play with

2009-02-10T00:58:00.000-08:00

Chew Items

Ice cubes- with a treat inside
Frozen washcloths- Can be dipped in Chicken or Beef broth
Kong ball with peanut butter, cream cheese, Velveeta, …..
Bully sticks
Dingo’s
Ice block- frozen in bowl
Holy Roller- with puppy cookies inside
Stuffer bones
Orka- pet stages
Premier- Wiggle, waggle, ….
Nylabone- some puppies like, others do not.
Food based items

Play Items

Anything that squeaks, beeps, wiggles, rolls, jumps…..
Balls- If you play with a puppy and a ball you need a few. Puppies don’t release (Typically) and you need to play what is called “Two ball”…or three or four
Ball on a rope.
Rope toy
Kong Ball
Plush toys (stuffed animal types)

Make sure you rotate toys.
Find toys that are easy for the puppy to handle
Plush toys are for playing, chew toys are for occupying a bored puppy.
No tug of war. A little puppy tugging is okay.

Puppy Development

2009-02-10T00:55:00.000-08:00

Birth – 2 Weeks:
At this earliest stage, puppies depend entirely on their mother for physical and emotional necessities. The pup has slow reflexes and responds primarily to warmth and food. Only the senses of taste and touch are present at birth.

2 Weeks – 4 Weeks:
Puppies are still primarily dependent upon their mothers at this stage, although they also benefit from the presence of siblings, or litter mates. Their senses begin to develop, as their eyes begin to open and their teeth, along with their sense of smell begins to develop. They are starting to stand and wag their tails. They are sensitive to loud noises and sudden changes in the environment. They are beginning to explore their environment.

3 Weeks – 6 Weeks:
This is the period of heavy socialization and puppies learn a great deal about social etiquette from their littermates and their mother, and from biting and being bitten. They are becoming aware of their environment and are able to play with people and other animals. This is the beginning of weaning and puppies must be remain close to their mother and littermates or it will be more difficult to socialize and train them later. Positive experiences are a necessity during this time, as they also discover fear by the end of this period.

7 Weeks – 12 Weeks:
The socialization process is in full swing by this point. Everything your puppy does and everything your puppy comes in contact with will have a lasting impression on him. This is also a marked period of fear for your pup and it is believed that if your puppy has a fearful experience during this period, it is more likely to have a long term effect on your dog. Thus, it is important to make new experiences as positive as possible for your puppy. This is a good time to introduce training into their lives.

3 Months – 6 Months:
This stage of development is the most similar to the human toddler stage. At this stage, puppies are the most heavily influenced by the closest animals, or their littermates. They are fully into the social stage and start to understand and take positions in the “pack.” They begin to test their independence at this stage, and often take a rough and tumble form of play to test their position in the pack. Teething is a constant issue at this stage.

6 Months – 1 1/2 Years:
Watch out! It’s the beginning of adolescence for your dog. At this stage, they begin to challenge rules and authority, and tend to explore who the leader is. It’s important to establish yourself as the leader during this period. Be stern with your pup for your own long term benefit. They are beginning to look like full grown, mature dogs, but still a puppy at heart!

This is also the beginning of sexual maturity and male dogs will begin to mark their scent while female dogs will begin their heat cycles

Rough Play.

2009-02-10T00:50:00.000-08:00

Did you know?

If you rough house or slap box, play tug of war or keep away, you are teaching your puppy/dog that using his mouth, his strength/stamina, body and his teeth is how games are played.

Although he is small in size and a little clumsy now, in no time he will grow into a fully mature animal. A dog at full maturity is faster, stronger and more cunning than you may think. It does not matter if he is a Monster Mastiff or a tiny Chihuahua. Not only may you get hurt (accidentally) but a small child in your family, your wife or a stranger can as well. This type of play is fun for humans, but to the dog, it is a game of competition and battle of the wills. You are activating his prey drive, possessiveness, excited dominance and aggression. If someone gets bit, in most cases you will blame him. Remember, in most dogs, there has to be a winner and a loser.

Dogs who engage in this type of play tend to be more demanding, use their mouth to get your attention, jump up and grab you, are more nippy, more mouthy and more dominate in social initiation and interaction